In Search of the Perfect Crust

Lately, I have been researching different recipes and methods to reproduce that wonderful pizza crust we eat in Italy (Napoli). It seems that its not as easy as it seems and there is a lot more to it than just dough. I started my search for “pizza dough” as usual on google and end up with a list of the usual sporadic results in which I must sift through and eventually modify my search terms. The result was a recipe that not only made me understand pizza dough, but gave me a good primer on artisanal bread baking all together. Before I read this site, I never thought that bread was worth my time. Jeff Varasano, a resident of Atlanta, USA, has followed his passion for recreating the great pizza at home with regular home equipments. His findings from his extensive research gave me an insight into what I should be looking for in a perfect crust. Crisp and charred outside with a soft and tender inside. It is this double texture impact that we are looking for. According to Jeff, the most important factors in achieving a perfect crust is 1) High heat 2)Kneading technique 3)Yeast culture or sourdough.
Essentially bread is more about method than quality ingredients. Think about all those great breads that were made for the masses. Baguettes, Arabic bread, naan and many more, all were made using easy to find and fairly cheap local ingredients. Keep in mind that it is cheap in their local environments, so French flour in India would be extremely expensive and thus you wouldn’t have authentic baguettes and so forth.
Anyway, my craving for authentic pizza in a country where the bar is as high as a thin crust Pizza Hut meat lover’s pizza meant that I had to spend sleepless nights searching for it (until I smack down my blood sugar with a late night burger). Figuring out the kneading process is not a big deal, even though the right equipments can give far superior results than regular home mixers, but I have to start somewhere. Sourcing the proper yeast culture is a simple mouse click on the screen of some obscure sites. Getting the right heat and we are talking about 450 degrees celcius is very difficult using home ovens. This kind of heat can only be achieved in commercial ovens and best achieved with wood fired ovens. I’m in trouble.
All I had was regular all purpose flour, pizza yeast which I got off the shelf, and a little device called Pizza Pronto. I hope this little device does the trick or I’m booking the next flight to Rome.
Before I begin mixing I understood one very essential technique in pizza making and artisinal bread making in general. Autolyse is a french technique of allowing the dough to untangle its gluten strands without the use of kneading. Why do that? Well its for two very good reasons. The first reason is that it cuts down the kneading time in half or a bit more and that means a lot for those that are proponents of hand kneading. I am not a purist and love technology, so to me its all about the time. Cutting kneading time gives way to the second reason, which is not to allow too much oxygen to permeate the dough and over bleach it. This tends to damage all the natural fats of the flour and thus the flavor.
Another important technique is folding. Folding during the fermentation of the dough is important as it adds further strength to the dough structure. This is an important step for any artisinal bread. This allows the gluten strands to further elongate as you fold in the dough. The wet dough might not give you the feel of the dough working, but in fact it is and it will show in the final product.
I still need that sourdough to make the flavor more authentic, but I’m not going to wait for that shipment to arrive. This is how I did my pizza :
500 gms all purpose flour
325 gms water
1 tsp yeast
1 tsp Fleur de Sel or Sea Salt
Mixing
Mix the flour and water properly and leave it to autolye or rest for 30 minutes. Add the salt & yeast to the mixer and mix on medium spead with the dough hooks for 3 minutes. Don’t over do this as it will lose flavor and bleach. Let to rest for 10 minutes.
Fermentation
Leave the dough in the refrigerator for a minimum of 24 hours. The slow rise process allows the flavors to develop and the alcohol released by the yeast to condition the dough. Keep folding the dough occasionally.
Preperation
Once the the dough is ready, it could now be portioned according to your preferred size. Shape into a ball gently and leave it to rise in a damp area for 1 hour. Flatten the dough with the palm of your hand on a lightly floured surface. Keep flattening in a circular motion until you get a very thin sheet of dough. It is now ready for the toppings.
Pizza Bianca with Mozzarella, Ricotta, Parmesan, Scallions & White Truffle Oil
1 Prepared Pizza Dough
50 gms Fresh Mozzarella
50 gms Ricotta
20 gms Parmesan & more for presentation
1 Scallion bottom half
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
White Truffle Oil
Distribute The cheeses on the prepared pizza dough and drizzle with a little olive oil. Bake in the oven until charred bubbles appear. Remove and top with shaved scallions and parmesan shavings. Drizzle with white truffle oil.
Happy Crust.












